Somewhere with 2.07 hours to Singapore

Not a good time really - 11 pm Croatia time and 5 am Singapore and no sleep to speak of and a very sad movie called something like Looking for a friend for the End of the World- and the world really ends at the end of the movie and now we get to eat airplane breakfast. Yippee.





Zagreb was lovely and sunny for our last day and with the walking tour we got some of the history we missed out on the first time around and also free beer at a microbrewery from our local company Fortuna Tours to finish on a high note ( or low one depending on your opinion of beer !!)





Thats Graeme with some of his Italian ladies and my cup of coffee in his hand.

See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Sarajevo

Sarajevo is a bustling, busy city, a bit grimy like the rest of Bosnia but full of people getting on with business. It is hard to imagine the city being under siege for three whole years but the buildings soon remind you how terrible it must have been.







Bit hard to see the bullet and rocket holes but they are still there in this apartment block and many others. The Serbians had prime position in the closely surrounding hills and the town people basically lived out of shelters for long periods of time.

But despite this recent history they are moving on with life - but apparently racial tensions still remain. Shopping is apparently above all these problems and a thriving market place was just the thing for us on our almost last day.





Then it was a long 7 hours in the bus, punctuated by toilet stops, border crossing and apparent mine clearance works before we made it to Zagreb in the twilight and a lovely soft bed.


See you soon, Singapore tomorrow.

Love Wendy and Graeme

Goodbye to the Sea

Croatia was happy to say goodbye to us this morning but Bosnia Herznegovina not too pleased to let us in so we sat in no-mans-land for an hour with the other buses while the passports and drivers were put through the ringer. Eventually we were allowed to pass with no real problems actually and travelled along the river valley to Mostar. Plenty more obvious damage here from the war as budgets don't stretch to repairs and many folks have moved on - more obvious cemeteries too.





The bridge was still there, last destroyed in 1998 by Croatia and despite the touristy shops and difficult cobblestones the town has a certain charm. We visited a small mosque and authentic Ottoman style house - climbing the minaret was a highlight and I managed a couple of photos whilst gripping hold of the wall as it was a bit too high and narrow for me.





If you look close you can see the jumper - we didn't ask how much he was asking per jump but it was impressive and he looked pretty cold when he climbed out.





Had some real Turkish coffee ( basically undrinkable ) in a shower of rain and of course more gelato and trinket shopping to round off the day.

The journey to Sarajevo was again along the river valley which became spectacularly narrow, with high, high rocky hills on both sides and many tunnels and bridges between little villages both inhabited and not.






Love Wendy and Graeme

Into Montenegro - Kotor and Budva

We had the picture postcard view of Dubrovnik as we drove up and out the city toward the border this morning. Windy road over the mountain and road works then a very slow border crossing out of Croatia - but straight into Montenegro no stopping.






It was fascinating in Kotor, a bit poorer here with a population of only 680,000 for the entire country, so not much renovation of the historic sites and not much war damage either ( much too complicated to even try to understand !!! ). The city has a intact wall around the port side which then extends up the very steep mountain to high up forts and towers which we wished to climb up to but no time to get further than the first level - perhaps for the best at it was a mighty climb and my legs are still sore from yesterdays stairs !!





The old town was small but pretty with good pizza and many little streets and although it tried to rain we managed to stay dry.




This town is deep in a sheltered twisted bay with a narrow fiord like section in the middle so was a pirate haven and not so much captured and recaptured like other towns down this coast. Also has Orthodox churches from Serbian times, which are very pretty inside.

Next stop was another port town of Budva, which also had an intact city wall to walk, but was on the trashy side with big motor cruisers pulled up outside and tanned, middle aged women in too skimpy outfits and flashy jewellery and thick set husbands. The walls were good, although in places you could see through the stones (laid like thick planks ) to the ground below, a bit disconcerting so high up !!!





We came back the quicker way via car/bus/ truck ferry across the water instead of around the bay and then waited again at the border into Croatia as once again our passports were taken away for closer scrutiny - other buses went by with the guards stamping on board - but we must have had to pass muster with the Interpol database before they would let us pass !!!

Any way last dinner at the Rixos and our last on the coast as tomorrow we head back to the continental side and Bosnia Herznegovina.

See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Dubrovnik

If you only do one town on this coast you must do Dubrovnik - it is pretty near perfect. And although rebuilt many times after earthquake and war there are still 13th century buildings and 18th century jostling for prime positions.





And a moat with drawbridge, and a few km of intact ( rebuilt in places ) city wall which you can walk around imagining sieges and all kinds of happenings on the ramparts.










The second series of Game of Thrones was apparently filmed here and it makes a fitting Kings Landing, full of many dark deeds indeed.

But today we visited the Fransician Monastery with its pharmacy dating from the 13th century, one of the first in the world with continuous operation till today. And also one of the churches complete with Saintly relics - a few legs and various arms and hands requiring special prayers !!!

We had a lovely if hot day sampling the gelato and coffee and shops and watching the crowds pass by in the tiny steep alleys and broad main street. And also outside the walls there were many different boats and other sights to see.





See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Oysters in Ston and Dubrovnik

We said goodbye to Split for the final time and drove down the coastal road, hugging the Limestone cliffs at times, as the road wound around many bays and villages and villas.





We passed across the 10 km Bosnian section of the coast and stopped in the small town of Ston, well known for its five kilometres of Great Wall which kept medieval marauders out of the oyster beds and mandarin groves. We had a lovely lunch, notable for its oyster and mussel tasting and marathon length - taking the girls 3 hours to serve the 34 of us our 4 course meal. We then had to rush wall tour and made a quick trip to the top to just under the middle fort - no mean feat after all that lunch !!! There are quite a few empty and broken houses around the villages, Serbians who haven't returned since the war to this far into Croatia.









The view from top was lovely, of the town and the salt fields and then some mushrooms Graeme found down below.





Snooze time in the bus until Dubrovnik - the cruise ships are also in town so let's hope they leave early tomorrow. It is greener and less rocky this far South and looks very pretty so far. The 5 star Rixos is pretty good also but finding your way around the buffet was pretty daunting at tea!!




See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Split and Trogir

More people watching today. But first we had a tour of the Diocletian Palace proper which we left the first time around. Pretty amazing place down under the old city with cavernous halls of brick and stone, wonderfully preserved under centuries of garbage from the growing city above.




The palace above was torn down by the Christians after the, throw them to the lions, Diocletian finally died and his mausoleum was turned into a church. Then the city of Split was built in and around the halls and walls with the four main gates still remaining.





The people watching was fine as well.








See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Krka from a different view and Le Meridian Split

We made a different approach to this NP ( by bus not by boat ) and it did look a bit different the second time around - same water but different crowd.




Then Skradin and a lovely restaurant for relaxed lunch and then Sibernik for some crowd watching and shopping - spotted the President of Croatia during our tour with the guides pretty impressed to see him.










The view from Le Meridian at Split is pretty hard to take but then later there was a function around the pool which was pretty to begin with and then louder and louder as the night progressed. El President turned up later ( stalking us perhaps !!) so party not over till after midnight with us travellers a bit weary the next day.




Graeme has enjoyed the sea but the pool is better for me.

Love Wendy and Graeme

Lakes again

Pliivice Lakes this time around had a touch of Autumn in the trees and a much slower feel as our group ( well almost all as 2 weren't up to the 2 hour walk) had a stroll around the lower lakes and then a late lunch in a locaL hotel. I took the very slow road to keep company with the slowest in our group who heroically made the distance, but it was lovely as the crowd wasn't so thick on the boardwalks this time and the pace made for a much closer look at the lovely scenery.





We then drove down the centre of the country on the scenic continental side of the Velebits and then through the middle via a 5.8 km tunnel to pop out again at the Adriatic and Zadar for the night - pretty long drive and a tiring day for all.





This is the Krk Island just off the coast on Istria end of the Adriatic - very barren on this the windy side but apparently with trees and farms on the seaward side.

See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Istria - the mountains and the seaside

Day on the bus today tripping between picture perfect Istrian towns - Motovan, Porec and Rovinj. A pretty impressive 5 km road tunnel tales you through the mountain range and then you are back in the rolling hills and forest of continental Istra. Motovan was up on a hill and very pretty dating back to Romans and then Venetians, with an intact wall and very cute stone houses and shops inside.








The weather threatened on and off all day but the sun shone again when we got back to the coast and Porec with its 5th century church, the Euphrasian Basilica. This church had some lovely Roman mosaics in many layers under the floors and a working church with some Byzantine mosaics on the ceiling . Graeme and Julie climbed the bell tower for a lovely view of the surrounding waters ( much to the dismay of our guides who were vainly trying to keep us all together and on schedule for the day )




Last stop was another pretty seaside town of Rovinj where we were let loose for a late lunch and exploration of the town and church. Another tower climb for the intrepid and icecream and shopping for the less so. Lots of tourists here so it was pretty busy at the port and in the markets.








See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Back to Croatia

Move over Jenolan Caves, have we seen a cave today !!! Postojna in Slovenia boasted to be the best limestone caves in the world and I imagine they may be right. In terms of sheer size anyway. The entrance arch is pretty small compared to Jenolan but then ....... 2 km via small train straight into the mountain mostly through natural tunnel and then carved out in places to reach the station and then a smooth path to walk up and through for another 2 km of mostly natural tunnel - some man made to connect chambers together.





The largest cavern had a 300 m arched roof with a mountain in the middle to wind around and then a bridge made by Russian prisoners of war over the dry river bed into a substantial passage way through many, many formations. The river does go through 3 other levels and most of the cave is wet and actively growing - dated for the last 500,000 years. An hour later we found ourselves in the final cavern of the tour, 50 x 80 m, and then back to the train and lunch.







Now back at the water - although this far North in Opatija, the forest does meet the sea so it is not so dry and rocky, bit more Italian perhaps.





See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Slovenia

This is a very pretty place. The capital Ljubljana is very picturesque with a castle complete with funicular for easy access up the hill and a pretty river with many bridges.









The day got greyer and drizzle started as our walking tour ended back at the bus and we headed out of the city and into the forested mountains with farms and villages in green clearings. Everything is green as green and lush vege gardens are in every backyard. Everyone is getting in the wood for winter and sheds are stacked high with neatly split timber.





The glacial lakes at Bled and Bohinj were as green as the grass when the sun shone through but it rained proper as our boatsmen rowed us all across to the Bled Island and church and then as we went up the Bohinj mountain gondola to the ski fields for coffee above the cloud line.










Now there is thunder and lightning but our hotel is plush and warm. Early start tomorrow.

Love Wendy and Graeme

Split to Ljubljana

We had to say goodbye to Branimir this morning and bravely head off on our own for our day in Split prior to the overnight train up North again. Split and Trogir are pretty similar except for the fact that Split is a much bigger town and hence more boats and more tourists - lucky for us the cruise ships weren't in town !








We had a lovely yet tiring time wandering aimlessly about, stumbling into the odd wedding celebration in an open cafe courtyard or two. This little angel was showing off her pretty wings as the groom and men were singing and carousing about the square.





The famous church was closed for the Saturday afternoon as several weddings went by - all on foot as no cars in the old city, so it's a wonder no ankles were turned as six inch heels clattered along the cobbles. Everyone looked very smart and the tourist cameras just kept on clicking !! Back to Split in a week or so's time for the official guided tour.

We had left our luggage at the bus station room with a cranky lady who complained loudly in Croatian about every heavy bag she had to check in - and half expected that she would have closed up shop and stranded us with no bags just cause she could. But we ended up on the night train with only a few ticket worries and settled in to sleep only to be woken by the conductor ( with us now in PJ,s ) to try to explain why ticket says Zagreb to Split not other way around - how were we to know ..... it was written in Croatian ! Luckily our sleeper reservation was correct and I imagine we being on moving train and in pyjamas helped and very reasonable conductors just shrugged and thought " bloody foreigners " instead.

Despite the train being loud and constantly moving we slept OK ( much better than sitting up all night ) and have arrived safe in Slovenia. The trip was through beautiful forested hills and narrow farmland in a river valley- no more limestone rocks here - and hotel is very comfortable. Ljubljana is a lovely city for a Sunday stroll.

See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Good weather for a boat trip

It was a lovely day when we finally made it back to the Kornati NP and its many rocky islands and bays. Our boat trip included young people and old and it was a rush for the upper deck and out the front for the young things. Bit too sunny and breezy for me outside but the inside was just perfect with the side rolled up to get the feel of fresh air without the blow.





We stopped at one island for a walk and swim - nearly off the boat for one old guy who in the normal tourist crush got one leg down between quay and boat - didn't need my expert advise as the NP guys were there in a flash to whisk him and his nasty gash off to be fixed up.

The lovely salty lake was a swimmers heaven - as long as you liked rocks under foot and water too cold for me - got the swimmers on alright behind the trees as I am a bit more modest than the oldies who strip off right next to you leaving nowhere really to look but at the wrinkly bits. Graeme had an nice swim but even he got cold after a while and had to dry off in the sunshine.





We had a nice lunch on another island - meeting up with the cook and our fresh lunch where we had dropped him off two hours before. There was a hill which we of course had to climb and then more water which of course had to be swum.









Our now well fed crew climbed back on board for a merry boat ride back - imbibing the free home made wine and grappa kept many occupied, and Graeme and Brami drove the boat while the captain flirted with the help downstairs.

Back to the van and whoosh down the motorway at 140km and we were in Trogir, a small walled city on a peninsular with some now familiar sailing boats and very pretty narrow streets. Dinner out in the city and a small new apartment for sleep.




See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme