Oysters in Ston and Dubrovnik

We said goodbye to Split for the final time and drove down the coastal road, hugging the Limestone cliffs at times, as the road wound around many bays and villages and villas.





We passed across the 10 km Bosnian section of the coast and stopped in the small town of Ston, well known for its five kilometres of Great Wall which kept medieval marauders out of the oyster beds and mandarin groves. We had a lovely lunch, notable for its oyster and mussel tasting and marathon length - taking the girls 3 hours to serve the 34 of us our 4 course meal. We then had to rush wall tour and made a quick trip to the top to just under the middle fort - no mean feat after all that lunch !!! There are quite a few empty and broken houses around the villages, Serbians who haven't returned since the war to this far into Croatia.









The view from top was lovely, of the town and the salt fields and then some mushrooms Graeme found down below.





Snooze time in the bus until Dubrovnik - the cruise ships are also in town so let's hope they leave early tomorrow. It is greener and less rocky this far South and looks very pretty so far. The 5 star Rixos is pretty good also but finding your way around the buffet was pretty daunting at tea!!




See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Split and Trogir

More people watching today. But first we had a tour of the Diocletian Palace proper which we left the first time around. Pretty amazing place down under the old city with cavernous halls of brick and stone, wonderfully preserved under centuries of garbage from the growing city above.




The palace above was torn down by the Christians after the, throw them to the lions, Diocletian finally died and his mausoleum was turned into a church. Then the city of Split was built in and around the halls and walls with the four main gates still remaining.





The people watching was fine as well.








See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Krka from a different view and Le Meridian Split

We made a different approach to this NP ( by bus not by boat ) and it did look a bit different the second time around - same water but different crowd.




Then Skradin and a lovely restaurant for relaxed lunch and then Sibernik for some crowd watching and shopping - spotted the President of Croatia during our tour with the guides pretty impressed to see him.










The view from Le Meridian at Split is pretty hard to take but then later there was a function around the pool which was pretty to begin with and then louder and louder as the night progressed. El President turned up later ( stalking us perhaps !!) so party not over till after midnight with us travellers a bit weary the next day.




Graeme has enjoyed the sea but the pool is better for me.

Love Wendy and Graeme

Lakes again

Pliivice Lakes this time around had a touch of Autumn in the trees and a much slower feel as our group ( well almost all as 2 weren't up to the 2 hour walk) had a stroll around the lower lakes and then a late lunch in a locaL hotel. I took the very slow road to keep company with the slowest in our group who heroically made the distance, but it was lovely as the crowd wasn't so thick on the boardwalks this time and the pace made for a much closer look at the lovely scenery.





We then drove down the centre of the country on the scenic continental side of the Velebits and then through the middle via a 5.8 km tunnel to pop out again at the Adriatic and Zadar for the night - pretty long drive and a tiring day for all.





This is the Krk Island just off the coast on Istria end of the Adriatic - very barren on this the windy side but apparently with trees and farms on the seaward side.

See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Istria - the mountains and the seaside

Day on the bus today tripping between picture perfect Istrian towns - Motovan, Porec and Rovinj. A pretty impressive 5 km road tunnel tales you through the mountain range and then you are back in the rolling hills and forest of continental Istra. Motovan was up on a hill and very pretty dating back to Romans and then Venetians, with an intact wall and very cute stone houses and shops inside.








The weather threatened on and off all day but the sun shone again when we got back to the coast and Porec with its 5th century church, the Euphrasian Basilica. This church had some lovely Roman mosaics in many layers under the floors and a working church with some Byzantine mosaics on the ceiling . Graeme and Julie climbed the bell tower for a lovely view of the surrounding waters ( much to the dismay of our guides who were vainly trying to keep us all together and on schedule for the day )




Last stop was another pretty seaside town of Rovinj where we were let loose for a late lunch and exploration of the town and church. Another tower climb for the intrepid and icecream and shopping for the less so. Lots of tourists here so it was pretty busy at the port and in the markets.








See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Back to Croatia

Move over Jenolan Caves, have we seen a cave today !!! Postojna in Slovenia boasted to be the best limestone caves in the world and I imagine they may be right. In terms of sheer size anyway. The entrance arch is pretty small compared to Jenolan but then ....... 2 km via small train straight into the mountain mostly through natural tunnel and then carved out in places to reach the station and then a smooth path to walk up and through for another 2 km of mostly natural tunnel - some man made to connect chambers together.





The largest cavern had a 300 m arched roof with a mountain in the middle to wind around and then a bridge made by Russian prisoners of war over the dry river bed into a substantial passage way through many, many formations. The river does go through 3 other levels and most of the cave is wet and actively growing - dated for the last 500,000 years. An hour later we found ourselves in the final cavern of the tour, 50 x 80 m, and then back to the train and lunch.







Now back at the water - although this far North in Opatija, the forest does meet the sea so it is not so dry and rocky, bit more Italian perhaps.





See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Slovenia

This is a very pretty place. The capital Ljubljana is very picturesque with a castle complete with funicular for easy access up the hill and a pretty river with many bridges.









The day got greyer and drizzle started as our walking tour ended back at the bus and we headed out of the city and into the forested mountains with farms and villages in green clearings. Everything is green as green and lush vege gardens are in every backyard. Everyone is getting in the wood for winter and sheds are stacked high with neatly split timber.





The glacial lakes at Bled and Bohinj were as green as the grass when the sun shone through but it rained proper as our boatsmen rowed us all across to the Bled Island and church and then as we went up the Bohinj mountain gondola to the ski fields for coffee above the cloud line.










Now there is thunder and lightning but our hotel is plush and warm. Early start tomorrow.

Love Wendy and Graeme

Split to Ljubljana

We had to say goodbye to Branimir this morning and bravely head off on our own for our day in Split prior to the overnight train up North again. Split and Trogir are pretty similar except for the fact that Split is a much bigger town and hence more boats and more tourists - lucky for us the cruise ships weren't in town !








We had a lovely yet tiring time wandering aimlessly about, stumbling into the odd wedding celebration in an open cafe courtyard or two. This little angel was showing off her pretty wings as the groom and men were singing and carousing about the square.





The famous church was closed for the Saturday afternoon as several weddings went by - all on foot as no cars in the old city, so it's a wonder no ankles were turned as six inch heels clattered along the cobbles. Everyone looked very smart and the tourist cameras just kept on clicking !! Back to Split in a week or so's time for the official guided tour.

We had left our luggage at the bus station room with a cranky lady who complained loudly in Croatian about every heavy bag she had to check in - and half expected that she would have closed up shop and stranded us with no bags just cause she could. But we ended up on the night train with only a few ticket worries and settled in to sleep only to be woken by the conductor ( with us now in PJ,s ) to try to explain why ticket says Zagreb to Split not other way around - how were we to know ..... it was written in Croatian ! Luckily our sleeper reservation was correct and I imagine we being on moving train and in pyjamas helped and very reasonable conductors just shrugged and thought " bloody foreigners " instead.

Despite the train being loud and constantly moving we slept OK ( much better than sitting up all night ) and have arrived safe in Slovenia. The trip was through beautiful forested hills and narrow farmland in a river valley- no more limestone rocks here - and hotel is very comfortable. Ljubljana is a lovely city for a Sunday stroll.

See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Good weather for a boat trip

It was a lovely day when we finally made it back to the Kornati NP and its many rocky islands and bays. Our boat trip included young people and old and it was a rush for the upper deck and out the front for the young things. Bit too sunny and breezy for me outside but the inside was just perfect with the side rolled up to get the feel of fresh air without the blow.





We stopped at one island for a walk and swim - nearly off the boat for one old guy who in the normal tourist crush got one leg down between quay and boat - didn't need my expert advise as the NP guys were there in a flash to whisk him and his nasty gash off to be fixed up.

The lovely salty lake was a swimmers heaven - as long as you liked rocks under foot and water too cold for me - got the swimmers on alright behind the trees as I am a bit more modest than the oldies who strip off right next to you leaving nowhere really to look but at the wrinkly bits. Graeme had an nice swim but even he got cold after a while and had to dry off in the sunshine.





We had a nice lunch on another island - meeting up with the cook and our fresh lunch where we had dropped him off two hours before. There was a hill which we of course had to climb and then more water which of course had to be swum.









Our now well fed crew climbed back on board for a merry boat ride back - imbibing the free home made wine and grappa kept many occupied, and Graeme and Brami drove the boat while the captain flirted with the help downstairs.

Back to the van and whoosh down the motorway at 140km and we were in Trogir, a small walled city on a peninsular with some now familiar sailing boats and very pretty narrow streets. Dinner out in the city and a small new apartment for sleep.




See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme

Sibernik and a rest

Rest day today as the wind is still blowing around the islands so we get to eat a leisurely breakfast and then wander about for the morning taking in the very fresh air.

Our favourite boat must have sailed early so we were left to dream about a cruise on the 888 instead.





And feed the swans - I said it was a slow day .....





We did jump in the van after lunch and Branimir drove over to Sibernik, another old town inside a bigger modern city. This one dated from the 1200's and on, with little windy streets and a fort up on top, also a lovely herb garden in the monastery now coffee shop and good icecream for the hungry travellers.








Weather supposed to be perfect for boating tomorrow so fingers crossed for the Dalmation Islands.

Love Wendy and Graeme

Krka NP

Small change in plans today as weather not great for boating out to the islands. So we headed South to Krka NP and Skradin. First stop a Franciscan Monastery in the middle of a very tranquil lake - had been invaded a few times but always rebuilt and refurbished. Now the garden has figs ( delicious ) and even bananas growing - only a handful of monks at present but they are ever hopeful of new recruits . In the monastery museum were some very old books ( 17th century) and many religious artefacts and paintings and also a photographic display of the many churches destroyed in the last war. We even got to hear the monks singing their prayers for noon in the church








At the end of the lake the river turns into the multi layered falls of the Krka NP, more amazing travertine layered waterfalls built up from the calcium filled waters. A boat ride and then a walk took us around and over the many falls and to old village complete with water wheels and also the second oldest ( to Niagra Falls ) hydro plant In the world.







Now at Skradin village - very upmarket marina complete with expensive motor launches and yachts and then upmarket restaurants and shops in the lovely old stone buildings. One big big launch, the Four Aces rents for $380,000 per week according to google and has 14 crew for 12 guests - pretty amazing. The Triple Eight launch was also in town flying the Aussie boxing kangaroo flag - couldn't quite tell if they were Aussies on board but they didn't invite us up for drinks if that counts for anything !

Had a lovely dinner for our Wedding Anniversary shared with Branimir and a little hungry kitty. Kitty got the remainder of my deep fried mozzarella and I developed a taste for the lemon flavoured beer - cause it didn't taste of beer at all. Let's hope for 25 years more of such adventures.


Love Wendy and Graeme

National Park Paklenica and the big uphill

First I have to make a correction - our guides name is actually Branimir , with a B not a V - an easy mistake given his lovely accent and Brani for short. He also has a lovely habit of drying off his shirt at lunch so has to strip off the top to change - did get a picture but might be too much for the older readers to cope with !!

Wearing clothes here is a bit optional a times. We got an eyeful of a couple changing into swimmers at the beach yesterday morning - all very browned saggy bits and not bashful about it. The boy hikers like to strip down to shorts when hot and sweaty and everyone sits about in the sun getting browner by the minute.

Our walk was amazing yesterday in the Paklenica NP. A narrow limestone canyon which then as you walk up and up broadens into a deep forested valley. So 3 and a 1/2 hours up the view was marvellous and there were mountain huts and a ruined farmhouse from the 17th century - all good once recovered from the climb.









But the most amazing bit was the climbers in the narrow valley - climbs of all grades brings out hoards of serious and just for fun climbers and some climbed very high indeed - too high to watch.

There were the serious ones



And the family ones


And us !!




The afternoon was picnic time so clothes were off and ropes left dangling while everyone sunned and sat about chatting and feeding the babies - an amazing atmosphere with some serious gear and adrenaline mixed in.

We were pretty exhausted when we got back to the hotel so a swim ( or paddle) in the sea was on order, then after tea we headed off to Zader, a historical city inside a bigger city on the seaside. There was a lovely wall and paved streets and narrow alleys full of people strolling and drinking at the many bars and cafes. Occupied by the Venetians and Romans and others over the centuries and then ruined in various wars ( including many bullet holes and grenade marks from the last in 1991 ) the city has lots of history and then modern touches like a sea organ under the paved promenade singing a slow sad song and a solar light display built under the stones to dance over and light up the sky.

Novigrad this morning is a bit overcast, but still a lovely little town on the bay. It is not nearly what it used to be before the war as many left for safer places and have not returned. So now the tourists can sit about and enjoy the sun and the peace and quiet in return for paying exorbitant prices for red wine - but the beer is only $1.00 a bottle - not quite fair really .


See you soon

Love Wendy and Graeme